AI Tools — Cloud HD

Restore faded photos

Fifty years in a frame or a shoebox, and the faces have gone soft and milky. Scan the print, upload it, and our server hands back the people in it — sharp, identity-checked, at full resolution — while the physical print stays exactly the record it always was.

Restore a faded photoPro · runs on our GPU

How it works

  1. Pick the faded or damaged photo of a person — up to 25 MB and 24 megapixels.
  2. Our GPU restores the faces and checks each one against your original. If the result drifts too far from the person in your photo, the run is refused rather than handing back an invented face — and you are not charged.
  3. Download the restored photo at full resolution. Add colour on the same run if the original is black-and-white; that makes it an HD run.

This page is the photo restorer, tuned to faded prints and the right order of operations.

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Solutions by use case

Restore Faded Photos — Free, Fast & Private

The order of operations matters more than any single tool. Restore, then colorize, then upscale. Restoration wants the scan as close to the original as possible — every earlier processing pass smears the detail it reads faces from. The colorizer then gets restored faces to paint, which reads far more naturally than colour laid over blur. And the upscaler goes last because it faithfully preserves whatever it is given — including any flaw you have not fixed yet. Only the first two steps involve an upload; the rest happens on your own device.

Fading is chemistry, and the faces bear the worst of it. Silver prints fade towards flat grey, colour prints towards orange or magenta, and in both cases the mid-tones that carry a face’s structure go first. That is why a face-restoration model is the right first move for a faded print: it rebuilds exactly the range the decades took. What it will not do is repaint the whole scene — the tool declines photos with no findable face, and physical damage outside the faces comes back untouched, on purpose.

Scan once, properly, and archive the scan. 600 DPI for small prints, 300 DPI for larger ones, into an untouched master file you never edit. Every restored, colorized or enlarged version is a derivative that lives beside it, named so the difference is obvious in twenty years. If the print matters, keep the print too — paper has outlasted every file format so far.

These are family faces, so privacy is stated plainly. This tool runs on our GPU server because the model is too heavy for a browser. The scan is encrypted in transit, processed once, deleted on completion and in all cases within 24 hours, and never used to train anything — ours or anyone else’s.

How it works

  1. Digitise the print properly: Scan at 600 DPI, or photograph it square-on in even light without flash. Crop away the scanner bed with the on-device crop tool.
  2. Restore the faces first: Upload the scan here (JPEG, PNG or WebP, up to 25 MB). RestoreFormer++ rebuilds each face and identity-checks it.
  3. Then colorize, if it is black-and-white: Run the restored result through the colorizer — restored faces give the colour model cleaner detail to read.
  4. Enlarge last, on your device: Finish with the on-device upscaler if you want a print-size file. Keep the original scan untouched beside every derivative.

Frequently asked questions

Will it work on a photo of a photo?
Yes — most faded prints arrive as a phone picture of the print. Shoot square-on in soft daylight, avoid glare on the glossy surface, and crop to the print itself before uploading. A flatbed scan at 600 DPI is better when you have one.
Does it fix the fading itself?
It restores the faces, which is where fading hurts most — eyes and features that have gone milky come back with contrast and texture. Overall tone and colour cast are a separate job: for black-and-white prints, run the result through the colorizer; for general contrast, any photo editor can stretch levels without an upload.
Can it repair tears, stains and silverfish damage?
No. This tool rebuilds faces; it does not paint over physical damage, and it will not invent image where the print is gone. Damage outside the faces comes back as it was. That restraint is deliberate — the result stays a record of your print, not an artist’s impression of it.
What if the faces are very small?
A face only a few dozen pixels wide carries little for the model to anchor on. It will try, and the identity check will referee — if the rebuilt face has drifted from the person in your photo, the run is refused and nothing is charged.
Is my family photo kept anywhere?
No. It is uploaded over an encrypted connection for this run only, deleted within 24 hours of completion — and never used to train anything. The input file is gone before your download link is even issued.