No. 07 — AI Tools · Cloud HDPro · on our GPU

Unblur an image, detail comes back.

Most blurry photos are shaky photos: the shutter stayed open a fraction too long and your hands moved. Our Cloud HD model rebuilds the edges that slid smeared — at the original pixel size, and without pretending it can unwind a streak the sensor recorded as a streak.

Pro · Cloud HDDeleted on completionUp to 25 MB · 24 MP
Unblur an imageCloud HD · our GPU

How it works

  1. Pick the blurry shot — a JPEG, PNG or WebP up to 25 MB and 24 megapixels.
  2. It is uploaded to our server for that run and deleted when the run finishes, and in all cases within 24 hours.
  3. Download it at the same size, with edges rebuilt and any faces restored. One general Cloud HD run; not an HD run.

This page is the AI photo enhancer, tuned to camera shake and the handheld exposure that caused it.

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Unblur an ImagePro, on our server

Shake blur is the scene painted along a short line, not a scene out of focus. While the shutter is open, every point of light lands on a track of sensor pixels rather than on one, so the whole frame carries the same little smear pointing the same way. That is why shaky photos look uniformly soft while a focus miss leaves some planes crisp. It also explains the ceiling: if the track is two or three pixels long, the underlying edge survives in the overlap and the Cloud HD enhancer rebuilds it convincingly. If the track is forty pixels long, every point has been mixed with forty of its neighbours and the original values are gone for good.

Shutter speed tells you in advance whether a photo will be recoverable. The old rule of thumb — keep the shutter faster than one over the focal length — still roughly holds on phones, where the effective focal length is short and the stabiliser buys a couple of stops. Indoors after dark a phone will happily take a quarter-second exposure and hand you something that looks fine on a five-inch screen and falls apart at full size. If that is your situation, the companion page on fixing low-light photos covers the noise and colour cast that arrive alongside the shake, because a dim scene rarely produces only one problem.

Do the free things before you spend a run. Start from the original camera file rather than the copy a messaging app recompressed — compression smears in the same places shake does, and the two together cost more than either alone. If several frames exist from one press of the button, pick the sharpest even when the framing is worse; you can crop it on your own device afterwards with no upload at all. Do not pre-sharpen. And if what you actually want is a bigger file rather than a clearer one, the image upscaler is the tool for that; enhancement here deliberately returns the dimensions it was given.

Where the photo goes, stated plainly. Nearly every tool on MiniPx runs entirely on your own device. This one does not: the model is far too large for a browser, so Cloud HD is a Pro-only, opt-in path where the image is uploaded to our server for that run and deleted when the run finishes, and in all cases within 24 hours. Processing happens in the United States on Cloudflare R2 storage and Modal GPUs, the transfer is encrypted, and nothing you send is ever used to train anything. The model that ran is named on the result — today RestoreFormer++. The model can change, and you can always see which one ran.

How it works

  1. Find the sharpest frame you have: Phones often keep several shots from one press. Compare them at 100% and start from the least shaky one rather than the best-composed one.
  2. Upload the untouched original: JPEG, PNG or WebP up to 25 MB and 24 megapixels. Skip any copy a gallery app has already sharpened or a chat app has recompressed.
  3. Run the Cloud HD enhancer: The clean-up pass rebuilds smeared edges, and any face in the frame gets its own restoration pass. Usually well under a minute.
  4. Compare at actual pixels: Zoom to 100% on a hard edge — a doorframe, lettering, an eyelash. That is where recovered detail is either there or it is not.

Frequently asked questions

Which kinds of blur can actually be undone?
Mild handheld shake and general softness, reliably — those leave edges smeared but still present, and the model has enough to work from. A long handheld exposure that turned lights into streaks is a different case: the sensor recorded the streak, not the scene, and no model can unwind it. Judge by whether you can still tell where an edge belongs.
My photo has streaks running in one direction. Is that fixable?
Directional streaking is the signature of camera shake during the exposure — the whole frame slid across the sensor. Short streaks of a few pixels usually come back well. Long ones do not, because every point in the scene has been spread along a line and the overlaps cannot be separated again. Try the run; a refused or failed run is never charged.
Does unblurring make the image bigger?
No. Cloud HD enhancement returns the same pixel dimensions it was given, on purpose — enlarging a shaky frame enlarges the shake with it. If you want more pixels once the blur is dealt with, take the cleaned result to the image upscaler, which is a separate tool with a separate job and its own time estimate.
Should I try the sharpening slider in my phone gallery first?
It will not help with shake. A sharpening slider raises contrast at edges it can already find; shake destroyed the edges, so there is nothing to raise except noise. Worse, it bakes bright halos into the file that the model then has to work around. Send the untouched original whenever one still exists.
What are the file limits and what does one run cost?
JPEG, PNG or WebP up to 25 MB and 24 megapixels; the result comes back at the same size. It is one general Cloud HD run — 150 a month on Pro Monthly, 200 on Pro Annual, resetting on the 1st with no rollover and capped at 30 runs an hour. Prices exclude tax, and a failed run costs nothing.