Upscale an old photo in the right order

Capture the print properly, repair it, and enlarge last. The enlargement is free on your device; Cloud HD is the optional Pro run.

Upscale factorOne 4.9 MB model, downloaded once, cached forever

Runs the heavier model on our server. Your photo is uploaded for this run only, deleted on completion, never used to train anything. Everything else stays on your device.

Processed in the United States under EU standard contractual clauses. Your photo is deleted on completion, and in all cases within 24 hours.

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Upscale an Old PhotoFree, Fast & Private

An old photograph is usually two problems wearing one coat, and separating them is most of the work. There is a resolution problem — the file is small, because a 6x4 print scanned casually or snapped on a phone gives you a couple of megapixels at best. And there is a condition problem — the print has faded, the emulsion has gone soft, the faces have lost definition, there is a crease across one corner and a coffee ring in the sky. Enlargement addresses only the first. Point a super-resolution model at an unrepaired scan and you get a larger copy of every flaw, rendered with more conviction than before. The sequence on this page exists because each of these tools is good at exactly one thing, and the order they run in decides how much of the picture survives.

Step one is capture, and it caps everything downstream. No model can recover what the capture never collected, so this is the step worth spending an afternoon on. A flatbed scanner beats a phone for three reasons that have nothing to do with megapixels: it holds the print flat so the whole frame is in focus, it lights evenly so there is no gradient across the picture, and it samples at a genuine optical resolution rather than an interpolated one. Scan at the scanner true optical setting; at 600 ppi a 4x6 print yields roughly 2400x3600 pixels, which is enough to reprint at the original size before any enlargement at all. If the only option is a phone, work near a window with the flash off, lay the print on a matt surface, shoot square-on so the rectangle stays a rectangle, and fill the frame. Curl the print flat under glass only if you can avoid the reflection, since glare removes information as thoroughly as a scratch does.

Step two is repair, and it happens before any enlargement because those tools hand back the same size. The Cloud HD photo restoration tool runs RestoreFormer++ on our GPU and brings faces back in old, blurry, faded pictures — it is Pro, it accepts up to 25 MB and 24 megapixels, and it returns an image the same size as the one it was given. It does not repair tears, stains, scratches or missing areas; nothing here does, except the Cloud HD object remover, where you paint a brush mask over a small region with predictable surroundings and the scene is filled back in. If the source came off a scanner, restore scanned photos covers the specifics of that path. Because those tools return the same dimensions, running them first costs nothing and gives the upscaler a clean picture to work from — while running them second would ask them to process four or sixteen times as many pixels for no additional detail, and can push a file into their 24 megapixel ceiling.

Colour, if you want it, belongs in the middle. DDColor produces plausible colour for a monochrome photograph, and plausible is the operative word: nothing in a black-and-white negative records which of several possible hues a coat or a wall actually was, so the model gives you a convincing guess rather than a recovery. Run it after the face repair and before the enlargement, for the same reason as above — it returns a PNG at the input size, and colouring a small clean image then enlarging it carries the colour up with everything else. Colorize photo for printing covers that step where the destination is paper. Both restoration and colour are Cloud HD tools: Pro only, on our server, off until you ask for them.

Step three is the enlargement, which is the free part. The upscaler on this page runs realesr-general-x4v3 in your own browser — 4.9 MB, checksum-verified, executed through WebGPU or WebAssembly in 512px tiles so memory stays flat. Choose 4x for a small scan and 2x when the capture was already generous; both run the same network, with 2x downsampling on the way out for a subtler result. The free tier caps input at 1080px on the long edge, produces up to 4320px at 4x, and stamps a small "minipx.com" watermark in a corner; it includes 2 AI runs shared across the three on-device AI tools before a cooldown begins. Pro removes the watermark, makes on-device runs unlimited and raises the caps to 2048px at 4x and 4096px at 2x, ceilinged at 8192px of output. Crop the scanner border and any damaged edges first in the cropper — reconstructing a strip of album card is an expensive way to make nothing. The tiling and the model itself are described on the on-device upscaler page.

Cloud HD as the last resort on a difficult scan. When the capture is small and the print was soft to begin with, Pro can switch on Cloud HD beside the run button and send that one photo to our GPU, where a JPEG pre-clean pass runs before HAT-L rebuilds it at 4x. Intake is 25 MB and 4 megapixels, output reaches up to 16× the pixels of the input — a 4 MP photo comes back at about 64 MP, and a full 4 megapixel source takes four to five minutes — long, and the tool says so before you commit. One run spends one of the 10 HD runs in your month, inside 150 runs on Pro Monthly or 200 on Pro Annual; a failed run costs nothing. For a print destined for a frame, that is usually the right place to spend it, and upscale a photo for printing has the paper arithmetic to go with it. The AI image upscaler hub documents both paths in full.

Keep the scan, and be clear with yourself about what is real. Archive the untouched capture separately from every processed version. The original is the record; the restored, coloured, enlarged file is a presentation of it, and a good one — but its fine texture is reconstruction, its colour on a monochrome original is inference, and neither should be relied on for genealogy, identification or any other documentary purpose. On the machinery: the enlargement runs on your own device and nothing image-shaped is transmitted, while the restoration, colour and Cloud HD steps are the exception — a Pro-only path where that one photo is uploaded encrypted, processed in the United States on Cloudflare R2 and a Modal GPU, deleted when the run finishes, and in all cases within 24 hours, and never used to train anything.

How it works

  1. Capture the print as well as you can: Flatbed scan at the scanner optical resolution where possible, or a flash-free, square-on phone photo in even daylight. Everything after this step inherits whatever this step gets wrong.
  2. Repair before you enlarge: Run the Cloud HD restoration on faded or blurred faces, and colour afterwards if you want it. Both return the same size, so they belong before the upscale.
  3. Crop, then upscale the clean result: Trim the scanner border and any album damage at the edges, then run 4x for a small print or 2x when the scan is already large.
  4. Keep the original scan as well as the finished file: Save the PNG for printing and sharing, and archive the untouched capture beside it. One is the photograph, the other is the presentation.

Frequently asked questions

Should I scan the print or photograph it with a phone?
Scan it if you can. A flatbed holds the print flat, lights it evenly and samples at a known optical resolution, and none of those three things is true of a hand-held phone. If a phone is all you have, put the print on a plain surface near a window, turn the flash off, shoot square-on rather than at an angle, and fill the frame with the print. A careful phone capture of a 6x4 print easily beats a careless scan.
What resolution should I scan an old print at?
Scan at the optical resolution of the scanner, not an interpolated setting, and choose it from the enlargement you want. At 600 ppi a 4x6 inch print yields about 2400x3600 pixels, which already prints back at its original size with room to crop. Going higher mostly records paper grain. If the original is a small wallet print or a negative, higher settings genuinely help, because there is more detail per inch to collect.
Do I repair the photo first, or enlarge it first?
Repair first, every time. The Cloud HD restoration and colour tools return an image at the same size they were given, so running them before an upscale means the enlargement works from a clean picture rather than from blur and grain. It is also cheaper on the caps: those tools accept up to 25 MB and 24 megapixels, and a file you have already quadrupled can run into that limit for no benefit.
Can the upscaler mend a tear, a stain or a missing corner?
No. Enlargement and physical damage are different problems. A super-resolution model rebuilds texture at higher resolution; a crease stays a crease and a torn corner stays torn, only larger. For small damaged patches with predictable surroundings — sky, wallpaper, a plain jacket — the Cloud HD object remover paints a mask over the area and fills the scene back in. Large missing areas and heavy staining are outside what any of these tools claim.
Where does colourising fit in the sequence?
Before the enlargement, and after the face repair. DDColor produces plausible colour for a black-and-white photograph — plausible, not verified: a dress it renders blue may have been green, and there is nothing in a monochrome file that says which. It returns a PNG at the same size, so upscaling afterwards carries the colour up with the rest of the picture instead of asking a second model to re-invent it at four times the pixels.
After all that, how much of the picture is still real?
The composition, the faces as photographed and the tones as exposed are real; the fine texture at four times the size is reconstruction, and any colour on a monochrome original is inference. That is a reasonable trade for a photograph you want to frame or share, and a poor one for anything documentary. Keep the untouched scan alongside the finished file — it is the archival copy, and the processed version is the print.

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